Georgia has been making wine for a very long time, yet its reds remain little known in France. Faced with a bottle of Saperavi, it is hard to know what to expect.
This article explains what this grape is, the wine it makes and where to find a bottle near you.
Saperavi wine from Georgia: an indigenous red grape
Saperavi is Georgia's main red grape: it covers 10% of the vineyards, or more than 4,000 ha. To taste it, consider ordering a Shumi Winery Saperavi or a Shumi Winery Iberiuli Saperavi Qvevri.
Its name means "that which colours" or "dye". This is no affectation: its red flesh deeply stains the wine.
Saperavi exists in at least 17 variants and clones. Saperavi Budeshuriseburi, whose name evokes elongated berries, is one of them.
It has been listed in the French Catalogue of Vine Varieties since 2012 and also grows in Moldova, Russia and the United States. To taste a traditional version, see wines made in qvevri. Buy two to compare.
Georgian winemaking, documented as early as the 6th millennium BC
Georgia has been making wine for a long time: pottery from Gadachrili Gora and Shulaveris Gora bears traces of grape wine dating from between 6000 and 5800 BC.
This figure refers to Georgian wine, not to Saperavi: do not mistake it for the grape's age. For another southern red, see our Mourvèdre guide.
Saperavi grows mainly in Kakheti, in eastern Georgia, the country's great wine region. That is where it is the most widely planted red grape.
Mukuzani and Kindzmarauli both come from the Alazani Valley in Kakheti. Look for this region name on the label: it is the best guarantee of a genuine Georgian Saperavi.
Deep colour and firm tannins: the profile of Saperavi wine
Saperavi makes a very dark red, sometimes almost opaque. Its tannins are firm, its acidity crisp and its texture dense.
At 12 to 14% alcohol, it stands up well to grilled meat or a sauce. For a light aperitif, leave it aside.
On the nose, the climate makes a big difference:
- Cool areas: red fruit, and a more elegant wine.
- Warmer areas: black fruit, grilled meat, and often more alcohol.
- A Saperavi from Kakheti can smell of blackberry, black plum, black pepper, sour cherry or vanilla.
Dry, semi-sweet or rosé: the styles made from Saperavi
Saperavi does not only make dry red. It can also produce semi-sweet or even sweet wine. It is used for fortified wines too, where alcohol is added during production.
In Kakheti, it is also made into rosé and sparkling wine. Good news for anyone who finds reds too heavy.
For long ageing, choose a quality dry, concentrated Saperavi: it will keep for more than ten years. To drink it within one to two years of bottling, choose a semi-sweet wine such as Kindzmarauli or Akhasheni.
For a meal this week, go for the semi-sweet: the dry version will not be ready for years.
Qvevri: clay-jar winemaking, one method among others
A qvevri is a large terracotta jar buried in the ground. The grapes ferment in it with their juice, skins, seeds and sometimes stems.
The result: qvevri Saperavi has earthier notes and a firmer texture. For a red with character, choose a qvevri Saperavi, then compare it with a conventional version.
To spot the jar, check the label:
- Look for the word "qvevri": it indicates winemaking in a Georgian jar.
- Without this term, the wine was made using the European method.
- One to try: Shumi Winery's Saperavi Qvevri 2023, in a 75 cl bottle, a Saperavi from Kakheti.
Four appellations to guide your choice
Mukuzani
Mukuzani is a dry red made from Saperavi. Its area lies in Kakheti, across several villages of the Alazani Valley. If you want a dry red, it is one of the first appellations to look for.
Napareuli
Napareuli is a Kakheti appellation that produces a dry red based on Saperavi. It also makes a dry white, but that one is made from Rkatsiteli, a different grape.
For a red, check the grape on the label: Saperavi is the one you want.
Kindzmarauli
Kindzmarauli is a semi-sweet red made from Saperavi, so it retains a little sugar. Its fresh acidity balances this sweetness.
To learn to tell sweetness from suppleness, taste the Qimerioni Kindzmarauli 2024. If dry red feels too harsh to you, start with this one.
Akhasheni
Here is how the four appellations compare, by style.
| Criterion | Mukuzani | Napareuli | Kindzmarauli | Akhasheni |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Style | Dry red | Dry red | Semi-sweet red | Semi-sweet red |
| Grape | Saperavi | Saperavi | Saperavi | Saperavi |
| Strength | Dry red from the Alazani | Dry red, also made as a white | Fresh acidity | Old vines, wines that age well |
Where to buy Saperavi in France, and at what price
Several French shops sell Saperavi, with prices ranging from about €13 to €32 a bottle. The top of the range does not guarantee a better wine: you are often paying for a more elaborate label.
Start at the lower end of this range. It is the simplest way to discover Saperavi with no regrets.
For affordable options, see the Kakheti reds on sale and their prices:
- Qimerioni Saperavi 2024, red from Kakheti: €12.84.
- Shumi Winery Saperavi 2024, red from Kakheti: €18.90.
- Tavankari 2021, dry red from Mukuzani made in qvevri: €18.
- Delivery in France: €11.45 for two bottles, free from €200 of purchases.
The key points: Saperavi is Georgia's most widely planted red grape, especially in Kakheti. It makes a very dark red with firm tannins, either dry or semi-sweet.
Your next step: pick an inexpensive bottle. Check the label for the word Saperavi and the region name, then taste it with grilled meat.
Frequently asked questions
Is Saperavi grown outside Georgia?
Yes, Saperavi is also grown in France. It has been listed in the Catalogue of Vine Varieties since 2012.
In other words, this Georgian grape has its place in French vineyards. So you can taste one without leaving France.
What food goes with Saperavi?
Serve Saperavi with full-flavoured dishes, such as grilled meat. Its firm tannins and its alcohol, between 12 and 14%, stand up well to red meat, a sauce or a spicy dish.
What is the difference between Saperavi and Rkatsiteli?
Saperavi is a red grape and Rkatsiteli a white one: the former makes dark, tannic reds, the latter dry whites, such as the one from Napareuli.
On the label, the grape name therefore tells you the colour of the wine.
